Eleven Suggestions for Getting to Know Nisyros
Nisyros is one of the most distinctive Greek islands, a place of unique beauty and essentially an open-air geological museum. Almost everything about the island's natural landscape owes its formation to volcanic activity that began 160,000 years ago and ceased around 15,000 years ago, making it the youngest major volcanic center in Greece. This long-lasting volcanic activity has shaped the island’s geomorphology, leaving its mark on every corner and contributing to a rare biodiversity.
To uncover the secrets and beauty of the island, you'll need to invest both time and energy. Despite its small size, exploring and truly getting to know Nisyros takes time. It requires walking along its trails, which lead from the impressive craters at the center of the caldera to its highest point, Prophet Elias, as well as to its charming villages like Emporeios and Nikia and beaches like Pahia Ammos, Moulara, and Hohlakoi.
The formation of the central domes is the most recent magmatic activity manifested on Nisyros. All eruptions are hydrothermal (phreatic) and are caused by the presence of superheated steam in the island’s subsoil. Temperatures reach 400–500 degrees Celsius, exerting immense pressure on the overlying rocks, which results in hydrothermal explosions. This is how, in the Ramo area, in the southern part of the caldera floor, 20 craters with a diameter of less than 500 meters were formed. Ten of them are well-preserved, each with its own name. The largest among them is the Great Stefanos, with a depth of 27 meters and an ellipsoidal shape, with a maximum axis of 330 meters and a minimum of 260 meters. Its age is estimated to be between 3,000 and 4,000 years. Next to it lies the Small Stefanos. Most of the craters, and the more recent ones, are concentrated in the area of Lofos (Great and Small Polyvotis, Logothetis).
The path begins at the refreshment kiosk and then turns into a trail leading to the Stefanos crater. Signs with red letters warn visitors that they descend at their own risk. In general, if one is not feeling well—especially on very hot days—it is advisable to wait before heading down. The trail requires some caution, as the ground is unstable, but the distance is short. After all, the crater lies just 30 meters below the starting point of the descent.
It is worth noting that although the Stefanos crater is the most well-known and recognizable, the most impressive hydrothermal craters of the caldera are Mikros (Small) and Megalos (Large) Polyvotis, which can be reached via a marked trail. However, descending to their floors is not permitted.
2. Swimming at Moulara and Pachia Ammos Beaches
The two best sandy beaches on the island are located on its eastern side, about six kilometers from the village of Paloi.
From the end of the paved road that leads to the beach with the Oasis tavern and the nearby parking area, a trail begins heading southeast toward the idyllic Pachia Ammos beach (part of Geotrail 5: Paloi – Lies). At the starting point of the trail, to the left, lies the stunning Moulara beach, which is quite easily accessible. It is a wide and long sandy beach, with striking black tones in both the sand and the seabed, beautifully crystal-clear waters, and a unique charm—thanks to its untouched natural surroundings and the fact that it remains largely uncrowded.
The trail continues to Pachia Ammos for approximately one kilometer, offering stunning views from above, as it is carved along the slopes. Caution is advised, especially toward the end where the ground becomes quite unstable and the path narrows. As you approach Pachia Ammos, the view from above is spectacular and truly unique. It is an expansive sandy beach which, true to its name, is indeed “thick”! The sand even stretches inland behind the beach, forming impressive sand dunes.
3. Visit to the islet of Gyali, opposite Mandraki
Gyali islet is the youngest volcanic center in the Nisyros region. It consists of two hills connected by a narrow isthmus. On the northwest and southeast sides of this isthmus, two beautiful beaches have formed. The southwestern part of the island is composed of thick layers of pumice created by two eruptions (around 10,000 years ago), which occurred after the formation of Nisyros. The first eruption deposited pumice layers up to 160 meters thick on the sea floor, which have been commercially exploited by a company since 1956. Above this layer lies a much thinner (3–4 meter) stratum of tuff rock, a compact stone formed from pumice pebbles and thousands of fossilized shells. The northeastern part of the island consists entirely of natural volcanic glass flows (hence the island's name), specifically obsidian and perlite. These minerals are currently mined and exported by two mining companies.
The islet can be visited for swimming via day trips from Mandraki (approximately 20–25 minutes away by boat), but access is strictly limited to the designated area as informed upon arrival.
The North Beach resembles an exotic beach with sand and light turquoise waters due to the pumice. It can be reached via a short 5–10 minute walk along a trail from the dock where the tourist boat anchors. This is where the vast majority of visitors arrive.
However, a very beautiful and almost deserted beach is the Southeast Beach, which is visible to the right upon arrival, with a fantastic light yellow color and an endless sandy shore mixed with fine gravel. A beautiful beach also exists on the islet of Agios Antonios, to the northeast, but you will need your own boat to get there.
4. Visit to the olcanological Museum in Nikia
The Nisyros Volcanological Museum is located in Nikia, housed in the building of the Theologio Primary School, which operated from 1959 to 1988. The school was built in 1959 with the financial contribution of the Nisyrian expatriates association from the United States, St. John the Theologian. The museum, which opened in June 2010, is one of the best geological museums in Europe. It is part of the network of geological trails founded by the geologist Giorgis Vougioukalakis from the Institute of Geology and Mineral Exploration (IGME). The museum presents the formation of Nisyros from the volcano as well as general geological information about what a volcano is, how it forms, and how it evolves. The volcano is not just the most popular and touristic crater of the island, Stefanos, but the entire island and its surrounding islets form a large volcanic structure. Everything we see on the island, whether rock, stone, or soil, owes its existence to volcanic activity, and it is worth dedicating time and effort to better understand it.
5. Visit to the Old Castle in Mandraki
A visit to the Old Castle in the northwest of the island, above Mandraki, is truly unique. It is one of the best-preserved fortifications from the classical period. The wall was built in the 4th century BC and protected the acropolis and the ancient city of Nisyros, which has been located in the same place at least since the 7th century BC. Built on the edge and slopes of the hill towards the sea, it ended in a steep cliff to the west, while to the north, it extended up to the rock where the medieval castle and the Monastery of Panagia Spiliani stand today. Today, six towers are preserved on the southern side and two on the eastern part of the wall. The construction of the wall used the local volcanic black stone (basaltic andesite). The thickness ranges from 3.65 meters on the east side to 2 meters on the south section. The restoration work of the fortification was carried out between 2003-2008 by the 25th Ephorate of Prehistoric and Classical Antiquities.
At the Old Castle, you can also walk up from Mandraki, starting from this point. The ascent is a bit tiring but short (10–15 minutes).
6. Swimming at the "Volcanic" Beach Chochlakia in Mandraki
Chochlakia is one of the most unique and popular beaches on the island, located at the southeastern tip in Mandraki. Large black pebbles, the "chochlakia," are difficult to step on, especially when they are heated by the sun, and around them, there is a strong presence of volcanic lava, which forms dozens of "pillows" of brown basalt andesite (the same material used to construct the Pelasgic Old Castle on the hill above us). These layers are considered the oldest volcanic formations on the island. The waters are crystal clear, and the seabed is beautiful, matching the dark colors of the beach. However, especially when the wind is blowing, entering and exiting the sea can be quite a challenging task.
7. The Thermal Springs of Nisyros
Nisyros is renowned for its numerous thermal springs. In many areas of the island, hot water (30-60°C) springs from the ground. This water is a mixture of seawater and rainwater with geothermal fluids from the upper warm horizon.
The Thermal Spring of Loutra (1500m east of Mandraki) is one of the most famous on the island and is classified (along with that of Panagia Thermiani) as a "therapeutic hydro-sulfuric spring." The thermal springs of Loutra have been utilized since 1872, and their therapeutic properties are indicated for rheumatism, arthritis, skin diseases, and circulatory system conditions. The maximum temperature of the spring is 46°C. In 2023, the renovation of the Municipal Baths began, funded by a 2 million euro donation from Nisyrian Mr. Nikos Andriotis. The eastern building also houses an affordable hotel with beautiful, simple architecture. The cost for the baths is 8 euros for regular patrons and 10 euros for visitors.
The Thermal Spring of Thermiani (800m east of Paloi, next to the church of Panagia Thermiani) is another well-known spring on the island and is classified (like that of Loutra) as a "therapeutic hydro-sulfuric spring." The spring has been known since antiquity, and Roman baths were once operated in the same area. An inscription found there proves that Hippocrates, the father of medicine, chose this spring as a therapeutic bath center.
Across from the spring, by the sea, the therapeutic baths were built in three phases from 1895 to 1910 by Dr. Hippocrates Pantelidis, who utilized this spring. The baths operated until the early 1930s (Dr. Pantelidis passed away in 1928). Since then, they were abandoned, and the impressive listed buildings were left in ruins. At their peak, the luxurious facilities had up to 300 beds. Later restoration attempts were unsuccessful.
At the nearly southernmost tip of the island, you will find the small settlement of Avlaki, the port of Nikia. Where the road ends, across from the chapel of Saint Panteleimon, a 200-meter path begins that leads to the sea and the small cove, where you can enjoy the crystal-clear therapeutic waters by diving off the concrete pier. The area is home to hydrothermal springs, and in the past, thermal baths were created here, which now stand abandoned in the volcanic landscape. The layers of black rust, which turn red at the top, and the andesitic lava flows that extend all the way to the tip of Avlaki stand out. If you have time, it is worth taking the old narrow cobbled road that once connected Avlaki with the settlement of Nikia. It is quite exhausting in parts but offers a unique experience and view as you climb towards the settlement.
8. Visit to the semi-mountainous traditional villages of Emporio and Nikia
Emporio is a traditional village on Nisyros, with only a few residents today and most of the houses abandoned. Stone buildings, uphill cobbled streets, and at the top of the village, the ruins of an old knight's castle. The small village square, which houses the church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, is surrounded by buildings, and here you will find a few shops for food and coffee. At the entrance to the village, as you approach from the carriage road, you will come across a natural sauna carved into the rock, with steam at a quite high temperature (36-40 degrees Celsius). To the west of the village, towards the cemetery, on the heights of the northern cliffs of the caldera, you will have the opportunity to see the impressive lava formations of Emporio, formed from the viscous magma of the island’s earliest volcanic eruptions 30,000 - 40,000 years ago.
Nikia, the second traditional semi-mountainous village of Nisyros, is built on the edge of the caldera to the southeast. At the entrance, you will find the Nisyros Volcanological Museum, the only one of its kind in Greece, housed in the renovated building of the old abandoned school. It offers visitors the opportunity to observe volcanic rocks and learn about the geological history of Nisyros. In the small but picturesque square of Nikia, in the center of the village, there are two coffee shops and a taverna, as well as the parish church of Panagia (Entrance of the Virgin Mary). The cobblestone pavement in the center of the square, created by the local craftsman Paschalis Paschalakis in 1923, stands out. The "Porta" café is housed in a neoclassical building from 1926. Next to the church of the Virgin Mary is the old school (built in 1856) and the Town Hall building ("Cazellaria"). From the "balcony" of the village, you can enjoy the unique view of the caldera and the hydrothermal craters of Nisyros.
Above Nikia, to the northeast, the hill with the blue-and-white church of Prophet Elias stands out at its peak. You can either climb the steps from the parking area at the entrance of Nikia or take a vehicle around the perimeter, driving up a 500-meter paved road to the end. From the top, you will enjoy the view towards the village of Nikia, but especially towards the caldera of the volcano. This location is one of the best panoramic viewpoints in the Nisyros Geopark. It offers a stunning view of the Nisyros caldera, the Stefanos crater, and the hill where the other hydrothermal craters of Alexandros (or Flegrethon), Small and Large Polyvotis, and Logothetis are located. The caldera is almost circular in shape, with steep walls rising 300-400 meters high and a diameter of 3.6 km. Inside it, you will find the Laki plain to the east, and the massive lava-flow domes with a maximum elevation of up to 698 meters to the west, which were formed during the last volcanic activity on the island.
Near Nikia, it is worth visiting two monasteries: the Monastery of Panagia tis Kyras and the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian.
The Holy Monastery of Panagia tis Kyras is located in the middle of the eastern part of Nisyros, approximately 4 kilometers from Nikias. The monastery was founded in the 19th century or even earlier. It was destroyed by the devastating earthquake on April 23, 1933, and was rebuilt from the ground up in 1935 with funds from the Nisyrian expatriates’ association in America and the Panagia Thermiani association. The monastery's catholicon, in the basilica style, is dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos. The iconostasis of the catholicon is intricately crafted in Byzantine wood carving, created by Cretan artisans. A sign at the entrance informs visitors that overnight stays are not allowed inside. Although uninhabited, the monastery is particularly well-maintained and clean, with a very beautiful vine arbor in the middle of its courtyard.
The Holy Monastery of Saint John the Theologian is located to the northeast of Nikias, about 1.5 kilometers away. The monastery is not inhabited and celebrates on September 26, in memory of Saint John. At the entrance of the monastery, its bell tower stands out, sculpted from volcanic lava stones. The monastery was constructed in 1949-1950.
9. Holy Monastery of Panagia Spiliani at the Venetian Castle in Mandraki
The Holy Monastery of Panagia Spiliani in Mandraki was built in 1400 AD within the castle of the Knights Hospitaller, which had been constructed 85 years earlier. It takes its name from the cave in which the church of Panagia, dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos and the island's patron saint, is built. The panoramic view over Mandraki, from the 150-meter high rock, is fantastic. To reach the monastery, one must follow the signs and ascend 130 tiring steps! Of course, the reward at the top will make the climb worthwhile!
The Venetian knight's castle in Mandraki was built in 1315 AD by the Knights Hospitaller of Rhodes (we had encountered the ruins of a similar castle at the top of Emporio). The small castle is perched on a vertical rock, rising 150 meters above the surrounding area.
The best way to explore Nisyros and its geological history, including the volcano, is by walking along its trails.
One particularly interesting route is the ascent towards the area of Diavatis, the Holy Monastery of Nymphios, and from there to the highest peak on the island, Prophet Elias.
Starting from the entrance of the yard of the Monastery of Evangelistria, follow the cement road to the right, heading towards the area of Diavatis. The road ends after about 500 meters, and from there, continue on foot in a southeastern direction. You will pass a small fenced chapel on your right and continue along the trail for about 900 meters, following the red marks and arrows. On your right, you will enjoy a beautiful view of the entire island of Giali. As the trail ascends, after approximately 900 meters from the start, you will notice a blue arrow painted on a rock to your right and a red N1. If you follow this direction, you will reach the Monastery of Nympheos in about 300 meters. If you continue straight, in approximately 1,300 meters, you will reach the road from Emporio to the Volcano, about 1 kilometer from the craters.
The slope increases significantly as the climb becomes more strenuous, and now large rocks and stones will require some scrambling and caution. The trail continues uphill for another 300 meters, leading you to a small plateau with plenty of greenery (mostly evergreen oaks). A few more steps, and on your right, you will see the monastery cells with their impressive stonework and the small church of the monastery.
If you continue climbing towards the peak, after about 1,700 meters of tiring ascent, you will reach the highest point on the island, at 680 meters, and the Prophet Elias with a magnificent panoramic view.
Some of the trails also lead to the caldera at Lakki. Here, you will encounter three indicative wooden signs along the caldera road that leads to the Stefanos crater.
One sign, pointing northwest towards the Monastery of Evangelistria, indicates the path from this point that ascends for 1,300 meters. At the junction, on the left, after 300 meters, the trail passes the Monastery of Nympheos and continues to the summit of Prophet Elias, while continuing straight will take you to the Monastery of Evangelistria (another 1,300 meters). From there, the distance to Mandraki is about 2,700 meters along the road and final trail.
Another sign, pointing towards Emporio, directs you north. You will continue for one kilometer along the cart road, and then ascend the trail for 600 meters to reach Emporio.
11. The Byzantine Monastic Complex of Sions
The small Byzantine monastic complex of Sions, dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos, will impress you with its frescoes. To find it, follow the road towards the volcano from Mandraki and immediately after the chapel of Saint Zacharias on your right, stop at a plateau on the left side of the road (after the turn). From there, there is no clear path, but simply head northeast up the slope, and in about five minutes, you will see the stone buildings of the monastery on your left. You can proceed within the complex, making sure to close the doors as you found them, and visit the chapel of the monastery where you will admire some excellently preserved frescoes. This small detour is truly worth the effort to visit.
